Factoid/2003/05/05
From Beachapedia
< Beachapedia:Factoid | 2003 | 05
Ever Changing Surf
- "The surf changes from moment to moment, day to day, and beach to beach. The waves are influenced by the bottom and the bottom is changed by the waves. And since the waves arriving at a beach are highly variable in height, period, and direction, each wave creates a slightly different bottom configuration for the ones that come after it." - excerpt from the book, Waves and Beaches, by William Bascom, Anchor Books, 1980, pg. 219.
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